Isn't that massive compared to many of my other tuts and there are a few things that are not technically correct (didn't even know the term padding when I did it ) but its fixes still apply
The pixel bleeding just comes from the fact I did cut each part a bit too close to the seams in 1024x1024. So some part have reduced a bit too much during the resize and ended 1 pixel behind the seam. I'll just slightly stretch them to fix that.
What I meant by blending was only about connecting the two sides of those cylinders' texture.
Eh no, you'll get a line there either way. Few things you can do, i try to fade out any extra details such as dirt or whatever towards it, so at the seam its not as noticeable.
CTRifle wrote:Eh no, you'll get a line there either way. Few things you can do, i try to fade out any extra details such as dirt or whatever towards it, so at the seam its not as noticeable.
I stretched the texture on 2 or 3 pixels on the damaged seams, and I got it fixed :
Once I've finished that I'll take a look at mudbox.
Initially I planned to finish the texture before making the normal map, but then I actually realized something : shouldn't I actually use the normal map to paint some of its details on the diffuse map ?
Those details don't have such different colors on the object I'm making but shouldn't I paint few shadows to increase the details ?
I suppose the better way to do it is to put the normal map as a new layer upon the texture on photoshop, or is there any better thing to do ?
Bake an AO map from it, and overlay that (it gives it some nice depth). You can use normals, but i only use them if they have some definite details, like edges, curves, or whatnot so you can see it. Just throw a B and W effect on it, and then you can try overlaying it, use the parts of the normal that you want. But Id use a AO if you can.
Also adding shadows like you said, would be the AO
Oh man ... I didn't know I could bake the AO. So far I was doing some sort of AO-like shadow manually thinking that was how all the nice shadows on the texture from PR models I could observe were done.
I did try for the M7 but the result was quite dubious. It allowed me to add some depth on a specific part I was about to ignore though, so it's been pretty useful after all. I'll give it a better use to it for my upcoming models for sure.
You could also use your Baked normal maps and turn it into a cavity, overlay and it should give some nicer highlights around edges and so forth. As for the AO map, use the multiply or whatever to overlay it, and drop the opacity to about 70-80 percent. Should give off some nicer details.
I've not made the specular yet, and I actually don't really know how I should set it up. I guess the M7 should have something close to the M1 Garand's metallic parts right ? And I think I'll make the M9A1 a little bit shiny.
Also I'd like to know how I'm supposed to deal with the lods. Info about the poly counts and the texture could give me some lead.
Last edited by KaB on 2014-07-25 20:57, edited 1 time in total.
Rhino do you think I should make a LOD3 for this ?
If it was done along the M1 Garand 3p models it would have been one of its components (maybe the only one actually). But then since it's all alone I'm wondering if it worthes an additional file. It'll just disappear if it has no LOD3 right ? Then I suppose the players won't notice any difference from that distance, will they ?
Ye not worth a 2D lod3 for just this. For your final LOD what I would suggest instead is just a 3 sided cylinder (totalling 7 tris if you also give it a front face) the rough shape and size of this and basic UV to its current sheet's main stretch then that should be more than enough.
Ye something like that although dunno how much it compares with lod0 but ye, no need for the back side since the weapon and player would be blocking most of that anyways.
By Final LOD I mean the very last lod you see before the object is culled. It can be anything from lod0 to lod9 but it should be you absolute minimum detail one, which for most handheld weapons is the 2D LOD3.
As such I would make your 7 tri final lod you've just made LOD3 but looking at your LOD2 it could be optimized quite a bit more, got a load of detail it doesn't need, mainly to many tris on the rear thin surround bit which has way more sides compared to the rest of the mesh. Would collapse every other one and don't need that yellow stripe down the middle of the main warhead, won't be missed and even get rid of all those edges around it unless you need them to support UVs but even if so, you can probably get rid of them and just stretch the front UV all the way back as when the mipmaps kick in at a distance you aren't going to see any of the white text.
